ESPÍRITO SANTO
THE COFFEES AND THE MOUNTAINS
In July 2022, we went to meet some of our favorite producers up close, amid the mountainous region of Espírito Santo. Edinaldo Costalonga, a skilled producer dear to us, was the one who guided us through the farms; he is known and loved by many of the producers. Many mountains and icy winds surrounded our days, and the mild climate is an important factor in producing coffees of high density and complexity.
Because of the climate, ripening tends to be slower, so the fruit absorbs even more nutrients and develops more sugars. The vast majority of producers use pulping machines, which apply a specific, measured pressure, just enough to remove only the skin of the fruit, leaving the beans exposed and ready for drying. This step contributes to more even drying.
For the second part of the trip, we went to Alto Caparaó to visit Ninho da Águia, Clayton Barrosa's farm. This region is a little warmer, which is why Clayton dries his coffees naturally. He has become known for the consistency and quality of his coffees, some of them grown in agroforestry. This growing system brings together other fruits and plants, enriching the soil and helping to form a biodiverse ecosystem, ideal for restoring the soil, keeping it healthy and ensuring the preservation of the region.
Beautiful coffees demand special attention at every stage; it is no accident, but the result of hard, dedicated work. On this trip, we saw up close how much work it takes to grow high-quality coffee. Witnessing a little of the producers' daily routine made us value this work even more, and every coffee bean that arrives at our cafés. The potential of the Espírito Santo region is on the same level as that of countries in Africa and Central America, and this excites us and drives us to seek out more brilliant coffees in our own country.
